2015年4月29日 星期三

遇見大魔頭

在加拉巴戈船上的日子,幾乎每天都會浮潛,理念大概是,每天都到不同荒島的角落,搶灘上岸看看之餘,也應到水裡看看… 

由于要保護生態,政府規定非常嚴謹,用來潛水的船只能去潛水,地點也不一樣,相反,我們的船也只能上岸觀光和浮潛,雖然只是浮潛,但對於我這個眼光狹小的香港人來說已經大開眼界!

在香港每年夏天,幾乎每星期也會浮潛,有白天也有晚上,晚上的景色和白天很不一樣,魚兒相對較遲緩,但蟹卻變得很活躍,全走出來,還有就是魔鬼魚,晚上比白天容易見多了!雖然牠們的尾巴有毒刺,但大都伏在沙底,體型不是很大,而被電筒或水流驚擾時,一般也是貼沙往前游走,感覺算是很安全

來到加拉巴戈, 也看到不少魔鬼魚,有些就如香港看到的 diamond ray, 大小和形態也很相似,心裡也沒什麼興奮的感覺…



直至有天遇上 eagle ray! 那天,牠就突然在jo 那邊出現,大概四米水深,jo 先潛下去跟牠找個招呼,然後有個意大利團友也拿著Gopro跟在後面,我在較上面的位置,正好拍下他和 eagle ray 一起,那就可以比較到牠的大小,到團友氣盡上來,我才下深一點和牠水平拍攝… 牠只是匆匆略過,對我們幾個 fans 看來沒有什麼反應,只是繼續悠閒的拍動雙翼,但在我眼裡已覺得很優雅漂亮了!和diamond ray 真的很不一樣,diamond ray 游動時只像一隻菱形大碟,碟邊波浪式推進,而 eagle ray 卻真的像一隻鷹在飛翔!


去看野生動物就是有這種驚喜,除了你能親身感受牠們的日常生態之外,就是你永遠無法肯定你會看到什麼,就在我們還陶醉於過去幾天能在浮潛看到鯊魚海獅企鵝海龜eagle ray之際… 就在最後一天浮潛的早上,還給我們遇上了---- 大魔頭!

那天早上我們浮潛看到很多海龜,心滿意足的上回橡皮艇載回船上,誰知上船還不夠兩分鐘,導遊突然指著船邊不遠處水裡一個大黑影大叫: manta ray!當時我根本就不知道什麼是 manta ray, 就在我們也不清楚發生什麼事的時候,水手已經立即上回橡皮艇催促我們再上艇…快艇小心駛近那超大黑影的附近,不敢太近,生怕嚇走牠,我旁邊的澳洲女孩第一個下水,不用兩秒立即舉頭上來大叫 “Oh My God !" 我們這時也下水了!同時也在驚呼!我看見一輛大飛船在前面飛翔,我們盡力往前追,生怕牠飛走,牠好像也對我們有興趣,往右拐彎來看看我們,我這時才看清楚牠全貌,體型比我大很多,翼展應該有十多尺以上!我拿著這個山寨GoPro,第一次覺得那超廣角鏡頭是有用的(前幾天一直有點不滿廣角鏡令拍出來的東西太小看得不清楚),剛好被牠填滿畫面… 牠看了我們一眼,再拐一個彎,漸漸往深水處遠去,就在我們以為牠要離開之際,牠突然轉180度,從水底往上向我和jo的方向直衝過來!!! 浮潛那麼多年,第一次有這種“拗底”的念頭閃過,萬一牠就直衝過來被牠尾巴刺中的話,後果可以很嚴重呢!

就在我還沒來得及有實際動作反應前,大魔頭就在我兩米前轉個急彎,就像向我示威說 : “死靚仔!影夠喇!唔好再跟住黎!” 

然後施施然遠去!




PS:
我們的導遊十多年來才第二次看到牠呢!上一次也沒這麼近
Manta ray 中文譯名又叫鬼蝠魟,可以有二十幾尺長,成噸重,表面上真的可以叫 大魔頭!但再查一下資料,聞說很馴良,而且尾巴也不像其他魔鬼魚有毒刺,人生有幸再見到牠的話,一定誠邀牠搭膊頭 Selfie一番 :P

By Mat





2015年4月28日 星期二

The first swim

在海裏看到大海龜,無異是很興奮,我們這次算起來也看到過不少。

可是,看到比我的手掌心還要小的小海龜,破殼以出後第一次游到大海,這興奮實在無法形容,而且還是在毫無預告之下突然出現的!


還記得前兩天在Bachas beach登陸時下著雨,海灘上全是海龜下了蛋的沙洞。當時有數隻大鳥在盤旋,導遊Leo就說事有蹊蹺,他跑到沙丘邊,剛好看到一隻篬鷺捉了一隻還在沙洞內的小海龜。可憐這小海龜還沒看到陽光就已經成為別人的盤中餐,希望他的兄弟們平安。

這是大自然的定律,小海龜的存活率本來就很低,如果他們不選對的時機拼命奔向大海,絕大部份是會被吃掉的。







今天,我們早上登陸Espumilla beach的海灘,然後在內陸一帶走了一圈再回到海灘上。正當我們在看沙灘上的鷹時,有人大喊『有小海龜呀!』,可能經過兩天前的經歷,大家馬上意識到是什麼事,直奔向小海龜,同時留意著天上有沒有獵食者。





就這樣我們十一個人圍著小海龜,見証他的第一個旅程!!他成功游到了大海就會存活下來!

Leo說小海龜到了大海就安全,但神秘的是很少有人在海裏看小海龜,到底他們從游進大海至長大前在哪裡呢?




祝你一切安好,將來我們在大海再見!

By: Jo




It is very exciting to see sea turtles in the sea, and we have seen a good number of turtles this time.

But, seeing a baby sea turtle, smaller than my palm, when he just hatches from the egg and swim to the sea the first time, is so much more exciting.  I have no words that will describe how we felt, when we saw that by surprise.

I still remember 2 days ago, we landed at the Bachas beach when it was raining.  The beach is full of sand holes where the sea turtles have lay their eggs.  We saw a few big birds kept flying over a spot in circles and our guide Leo said that there must be something wrong.  When he ran to the spot, he saw a big blue heron just took a baby turtle and flew away.  This poor baby has become the heron's meal before he even sees sunlight, I hope the rest of his brothers are safe.  This is how it happens in nature, the survival rates of turtles are very low.  If they do not choose the right moment to run to the ocean, they are almost certainly eaten.

Today, we landed on Espumilla beach in the morning, and have a walk inland and come back to the beach.   When we were busy watching the Galapagos hawks, someone screamed "there is a baby turtle"!  Based on what happened 2 days ago, everyone seem to know exactly how to react now, we all run to the baby turtle and at the same time kept an eye on the sky for any potential predators.

So, the eleven of us surrounded the baby turtle and witnessed his first journey!! He made it to the sea and will survive!  Leo said that they are safe once they make it to the ocean, the mystery remains though, very rarely do we see a baby turtle in the sea, where were they during the period they make their first entry to the sea until they become an adult turtle?

I wish you all the best, and hope to see you again in the sea in the future!

By: Jo



2015年4月27日 星期一

陸鬣蜥 Land iguanas

每個人都有自己到加拉巴戈的目的,而我明顯是為是這些對人類完全沒有抗拒的野生動物而來! 這個當年達爾文研究進化論的地方,到今天為止,仍然不斷上演著奇妙的大自然進化。

在South Plaza island這個非常小的島上,長了很多的仙人掌,只要你走近一點,仔細一看,幾乎每棵仙人掌下都有一隻加拉巴戈陸鬣蜥!


陸鬣蜥是地域性很强的獨居動物,所以他們各自會佔據自己的地盤,很少會看到一棵仙人掌住著兩隻陸鬣蜥。

可是,約八至九年前曾出現一次大旱,讓這小島上的仙人掌死了很多,陸鬣蜥出現食物短缺的情況…結果…有部份本來素食的陸鬣蜥居然進化成雜食,找不到仙人掌可作地盤的陸鬣蜥跑到石灘上,靠食海獅的糞便為生,我們當天更看到一隻陸鬣蜥正在吃一隻鳥的屍體…可見進化仍在不斷進行中。



 

By: Jo





Everyone comes to the Galapagos for a reason.  For me, it is obvious that I come here because the wild animals that show absolutely no fear for human beings!  These islands, where Charles Darwin studied the law of evolution, until today, is still the best showcase for evolution.

South Plaza island is a very small island where a lot of cactus grow.  If you look closer, each cactus has a Galapagos land iguana living underneath!

Land iguanas are solitary animals who also defense their territories very strongly.  You seldom see two land igua

nas living at the same cactus.

However, about 8-9 years ago, a lot of cactus on this island died because of the drought and the land iguanas were short of food supply.  As a result... some of these vegetarian land iguanas have evolved and became omnivores.  Those who cannot find themselves a cactus go to the rockeries and feed on the sea lion poos.  Today, we even witness a land iguana eating the dead body of a bird... this is clearly evidence of how these animals are still evolving on the island. 

By: Jo






2015年4月26日 星期日

赤道上的鵝 The penguins at the equator


我是住在地球最北的企鵝…很久很久以前,我的太太太…祖父母不知怎樣漂流到這個位於赤道的天堂,愛上了這裡,從此就落地生根。


很多人寧可相信馬達加斯加有企鵝,也不相信我們住在赤道…但這是真的啊!

這裡雖然是赤道,但只要南方的海流一到,還是會變冷的。


我們體形比較小,從很久之前,進化到現在,已經成為只在加拉巴戈獨有的品種!

如果你要看過全世界17個品種的企鵝,千萬別忘了我!


送上我們在加拉巴戈的水中暢泳片斷…




By: Jo




We are the penguins that live at the most northern location on Earth... once upon a time, my grand grand grand ... parents somehow arrived here and fell in love with this paradise at the Equator and built their colony here. 

A lot of people rather believe that there are penguins at Madagascar and don't believe that there are penguins at the Equator... but we are real!!

Although we live at the Equator, when the sea current from the South get here, it cools the sea down.

We are small penguins, we have evolved from our ancestors and become an endemic penguin species only found in the Galapagos!

If you wish to see all 17 species of penguins in the world, I am not to be missed!

Let's see how we swim in the sea.

By: Jo





2015年4月25日 星期六

藍舞 Blue dance

計劃加拉巴戈行程時大約是在三月下旬,我們大概估計了一下離開巴西的時間,開始在網上搜尋。

一開始我已決定要參加八天的團(最後也慶幸是正確的決定),基於日期的考慮,加上只有幾艘最便宜的船,所以很快就把選擇減到三至四個。

可惜所有這個星期的行程都不是我心目中最理想的,但反過來倒是有比較多我未到過的地點,其中一個就是第二天下午登陸的Punta Pitt。這個點是我們選Flamingo的主因,因為在這裡可以看到加拉巴戈的所有三種boobies!

當然,我們有看到全部三種boobies,包括blue footed, red footed和nazca boobies。但當天最精彩的表演是壓軸的blue footed boobies求偶舞蹈!

我們只能在指定的步道上走,走到中末段,導遊Alfonso說他聽到blue footed的叫聲在近處,開始我們還半信半疑,誰知再走幾步,他們就在眼前的崖邊。

我們慢慢走近,但他們飛走了。Alfonso說他們一點也不介意我們的存在,飛走只是要找更合適的地點。果然,話未說完,他們就降落在我們不遠處的步道附近,開始上演一幕通常我們只在紀錄片上看到的求偶舞!!



雄性和雌性均對對方有好感,發出求偶的叫聲和擺出美妙的姿態!我也特別鍾情於blue footed boobies的步姿,他們是最可愛的!

送上這精彩舞蹈的節錄.....








By: Jo

We started planning the Galapagos trip in the second half of March, by estimating when we were going to leave Brazil, and we started our search online. 

I have decided upfront to find a 8 days cruise (which proves to be correct decision).  And based on the dates we can make, and the fact that there are only a few economic ships, we quickly narrowed it down to 3-4 choices.

Unfortunately, this week's itineraries are not my ideal option, yet, on the flip side, the itineraries have more visitor sites which I have not been to.  One of them is Punta Pitt, where we landed in the second afternoon.  This location is why we choose the Flamingo, because we would be able to see all three types of boobies here. 

Of course, we did see all three types of boobies - the blue footed, red footed and nazca boobies.  However, the best came at last - the courtship dance of the blue footed boobies!

When landing, we can only walk on designated paths, when we are more than halfway done, our guide Alfonso said he heard some blue footed boobies nearby.  At first, we were skeptical, but then we saw them just right near the cliff in front of us.

We slowly approached and they flew away.  Alfonso said they really don't care about us, they flew away just to find a better spot.  That was true, because they landed right near the trail in front of us just then, and start their courtship dancing which we usually only get to see on a documentary!!

The male and female both like each other, and started their courtship dance and making of their sound.  I really love to see the blue footed boobies walking as they have this very special steps.  They are the cutest bird!!

Here is their dancing ...

By: Jo






2015年4月23日 星期四

預告二,簡報船上生活 Life on board


讓我首先交待少許背景資料,如希望得到詳細旅遊攻略,歡迎個別查詢。

唯一到達加拉巴戈群島的方式是坐飛機,而在大大小小的島嶼當中,只有其中三個有人類居住。除了這三個市鎮外,整個加拉巴戈群島都屬於國家公園範圍,而當中只有近100個旅客點,可供旅客參觀或登陸,可浮潛或潛水的海域也有規定。

我們在主島Santa Cruz上住了三晚,接著在一艘木船上住了八天七夜,我們休息時船就會航行到不同的旅客點。










我們的木船名字Flamingo,屬於最小也是最便宜的級別,同級的只有四艘,最豪華的有可載100名旅客的大郵輪。Flamingo可載十名旅客,另有船長,兩名水手,工程師,厨師和導遊,共16人。

船艙小得可憐, 更不用說床了,所以可以的話,大家都待在甲板上。



在船上的生活既簡單卻也很充實。

每天的日程大概就是早餐,登陸走走,再來個浮潛;午餐後休息一下,再來一次登陸和浮潛;晚餐後就各自休息,有時我們也會聚在一起聊聊天消磨漫漫長夜。


聽起來好像很有規律和刻板的生活,又其實充滿著不預知的驚喜!我覺得我們也可以算非常幸福,遇到了許多第一次,有些連導遊也是第一次的經歷…

讓我們接下來再一一細細道來。



By: Jo


First, let me give some background information, if you wish to understand details of travelling in Galapagos, welcome to ask.

The only way to get to the Galapagos islands is by flight.  Among the many islands, there are only three that are populated. Except for these three towns, all of the Galapagos islands are owned by the national park, within which only close to 100 sites are opened for visitors.  There are also areas designated for snorkelling and diving.

We lived on the main island Santa Cruz for three nights and then spent 8 Days 7 Nights on board a traditional wooden boat.  When we are resting, the boat will be sailing to the different visitor sites.

The name of boat is Flamingo, it is one of the four in the same class - the lowest and cheapest.  The most luxury class cruise ships can be up to 100 passengers.  Flamingo can accomodate 10 passengers, the captain, 2 sailors, an engineer, a chef and the tour guide, 16 people altogether.

The cabin is so small, and not to mention the bunk beds, so, if possible, we stay on the deck.

Life on board is simple yet fulfilling.

The daily routines are pretty much the same.  We have breakfast and go onshore for walking and then followed by snorkelling nearby.  After lunch, we usually rest for a while before we go onshore again for a walk and then snorkelling again.  After dinner, we are free to rest, we also gather around to chat and kill the evening. 

It sounds really routine and boring, yet each landing and snorkelling is full of surprise!  I think we were very lucky because we had a lot of "first time", some of which also a first time for our tour guide....

Let me share them with you one by one.

By: Jo


2015年4月22日 星期三

奇妙島 The amazing islands

有多少人一生中可以到加拉巴戈兩次,還是想再去?

這是一個奇妙的地方……

很高興船上十個人都是懐著超亢奮的心情結束這個旅程,因為它造就了很多人生中的第一次! 想像一下,大家興奮地訴說自己在這幾天內最開心的第一二三四五…個時刻!

這個奇妙島,有各種奇妙。

有最能和人類接近的野生動物,只要我們繼續保持對他們的尊重。

有最熱愛野生動物和旅遊的人們,缺少了這份熱愛的人,很難會出現在這裏。

在島上住了三晚,再在木船上住了七個晚上,回到陸時,感到地在搖晃,背包和所有物品都是一股海水的味道,房間內充斥著未洗的衣物的異味…我疲倦的身軀要休息了,明天再整理一下思緒,和大家分享!

晚安!

By:  Jo


How many will have a chance to visit the Galapagos twice in their life, and still want to go again?

This is an amazing place. .....

So happy that everyone on the ship were super high leaving the trip, because it created many "first time" in people's lives! Imagine everyone sharing their first, second, third, fourth and fifth best of the trip!

There are so many amazing things at the Galapagos.

The wildlife that stay closest to human, if we continue to respect them.

The most passionate travellers and wild life lovers who travel all the way!

We stayed three nights on land and then seven nights on board a boat.  When I landed today, I felt the land rocking, our backpack and everything inside are kind of wet smell like sea water.  The room is smelling the old laundry waiting to be cleaned.  I'm tired and need to rest before I can organize my thoughts and share with you all.

Good night!

By:  Jo











2015年4月4日 星期六

24小時 On Ca...


24小時on call , 小時候看電視,覺得那些便衣警察好型

24小時on call , 長大了知道是苦差

現在身為一個旅者,發現 24小時on "car "  比 on call 更辛苦!來了南美五個多星期,坐了七趟通宵車,平均每個星期至少坐一趟,由起初的純粹夜車,發展到這兩次都坐超過24小時,日到夜,夜又到日,對於我來說可算是一大挑戰了!

一來,我一向不善於睡眠,在家間中也會無故失眠,能睡著的日子也是非常“醒訓”,輕微的聲音、動作、溫度變化也會被弄醒…

二來,我一向被認為有過度活躍症,不喜歡待在家的,我媽說如果有一天我待在家的話,那就肯定是生病了!而事實上,相對於待在家,我更喜歡待在山中、溪中、海中… 如果有個名詞叫宅男的話,那我就是“反宅男”又或 野男了,所以香港樓價以 “$xx/平方尺/使用時間” 來計算的話,對我來說是貴上加貴,想起來一早決定不買樓是正確的 :P 這樣的一個宅在家一天都有困難的我,要24小時困在大巴上,算是很大挑戰了!

車上最大娛樂是手機,但沒wifi, 沒充電,必須慳著用,其餘能觸動我的“四感” :視覺、聽覺、觸覺、臭覺的就是車頭那14寸電視,播放著葡萄牙語和字幕的老舊電影,坐在我前面不停叫囂的小孩,和後面那不停用膝蓋頂著我椅背的麻甩佬,還有車廂最後那廁所,間中傳出來的尿味…

話分兩頭,偶爾也會有好彩的時候,例如經過郊區時窗外醉人的風景: 大片草地配上地平線上的日落,再加兩隻大嘴鳥在樹間穿梭飛翔; 而車廂內也會有春光明媚,見過一對互不相識的年輕男女,由換位坐在一起,到交換電話,到拖手,熱吻… 比車上播放的電影精彩多了!

當不玩手機,窗外車內又沒有精彩美景,而身體又不停被上述那“四感”打擾的情況下,能做的事就是發呆和打瞌睡… 又當呆發夠了,睡又睡不著的時候… 最重要的事情反而就在這時發生了!

就是“內省”和“寫作”!
這兩件事對我個人來說是很重要的,但不是很容易出現的狀態 (內省還好一點,因為平常睡不著的時候多,很多時候我會趁機內省一下),嗯…怎說呢… 要比喻的話,就像那些繁忙股票金融經理每星期會去靜心瑜珈; 整天坐在辦公室的 office lady 會抽兩小時去打泰拳一樣… 是一種平衡,一種淨化,一種循環,誇張一點說,亦是一種自我完善、修復、提升的修煉… 而這種修煉很多時必須借助某些行為或狀態來方便實現,就像有人會借打坐、諗經又或斷食去令自己進入狀態…

越說越玄了…簡單來說,很多人都因為生活習慣和性格,令自己偏向了一邊,需要補回又或喚醒那缺少部份來完善自己,但正因為那是性格和習慣以外的事,很多時就需借助外力又極端狀態來實現… 很多勤力用心的人會刻意加入時間表去做,而我這個懶惰又隨心的人,就選擇了隨緣…

而 24小時on car 正正就是令我進入那狀態的一個途徑 … 內省與寫作
這次寫什麼好呢?寫一個無聊人在長途車上天花亂墜吧…就叫 24小時 on ca... 吧!

By Mat