2014年7月21日 星期一

住在意大利 Living in Italy

在意大利住了四個星期,基本都是住在民宿。自從認識了airbnb後,每次出門都在這裡找住宿。出門在外,住酒店的感覺不太好,特別是要長期住在酒店更焗促。

Airbnb提供了一個很好的平台,讓一些「個體戶」把自己的地方出租給旅客,我喜歡它一般空間比較大,也比較有家的感覺,而且在歐洲這些民宿跟背包客棧的價格差不了多少,而生活環境寬敞得多了!

發覺在意大利的住宿,縱使是同樣一個房間,一人和兩人住在價格上是有區別,而且很大。就算是多人間的床位也一般要花上每人25歐元。


我們兩個人找民宿,目標價在60歐元以下,要求獨立房間,一般浴室也和屋主共用,有些會有自己的浴室。能用厨房也是必須的,我們幾乎每天的早晚餐都在家中解決,除了省錢,當然也因為在歐洲不像香港,在外面什麼都吃得到,也非常貴。我們除了意粉,有時也看能買到什麼材料,弄點新意...炒個青菜也不錯嘛!



有些airbnb上的民宿是整間屋只作出租用,主人不同住。兩個人的話如果選這種有兩個可能性,一是超細的「劏房」式單位,二是全屋的房間出租,可能和其他旅客共用屋內的公共空間。

其實我比較喜歡真正的民宿,即是我真的是租住屋主的家中的客房,和主人共用公共空間,也有機會和主人交流聊天,感覺就是到了朋友家中借宿一樣。





而且一個房子有人在生活是不一樣的,屋主也不介意你共用他們的消耗品,如烹調的調味料,吃他們的一大堆餅乾和意大利粉!比到了一間很整潔但空空如也的房子舒服多。


有人生活的地方設備也更不容易出問題,有問題也可馬上解決。我就看到朋友租的獨立房子有各式的問題,我們也試過網絡出現問題,找屋主又聯絡不上,實在很煩。不過,如果一家子人出門,租下整個單位是最方便的。

最後,我們也還會看其他客人的意見,會看到很多也許屋主本身沒有註明的詳情。有些房子雖然看來不錯,但一個留言也沒有,我們也不會選擇....生怕入住的都是有入無出!哈哈!

希望我們這些經驗對你們有用!!  祝大家旅遊愉快!!

By: Jo




It has been a full month in Italy, and we basically live in BnB.  After getting to know airbnb, I have been using it as my source for accomodation. Being away from home, it does not feel great at hotels, esp on an extended period of time.

Airbnb provides a very good platform for individuals to lease their property to tourists.  I like to stay in bnb for it is a lot more spacious and the price of bnb is similar to that of backpacker hostels in Europe and offer much better quality of living.

In Italy, even for the same room, the charges for one guest and two guests are different, actually quite different. Even if we look for dorms that take 6 people, it will still cost 25 euro each.

When I was searching for bnb, I use 60 euro as my target price ceiling and look for private rooms with shared bathroom with host. Some of them have private bathroom as well.  The use of kitchen is also a must, we almost always cook our own breakfasts and dinners.  Apart from saving money, Europe just cannot compare to Hong Kong for the variety of dining options and they are all expensive. Apart from pasta, we will, depends on what we can get from the supermarket, cook something slightly different, such as simply stir fry vegetables.

Some properties are solely for guests, i.e. The host does not live there. If we only have two, you either can find a small studio apartment or you may have an apartment with multiple rooms that are all for guests. In that case, you share the public area with other guests.

Personally, I prefer to stay in a real bnb, and live in the guest room of the host's own apartment. We love to share the public area with the host and chit chat with them. This feels like you are visiting and stay with your friends.

Moreover, an apartment that has someone living in is different. The hosts would not mind you using the consumables such as seasonings in the kitchen. They also welcome you to eat their biscuits and pasta, whatever you find in the kitchen.  That is different from living in a clean but empty apartment.

In an apartment with the hosts, the facilities are also less bourned to have problems and problems can be fixed on the spot. We saw some friends living in a whole apartment and had various issues with the facilities. We also had experienced wifi issues and the host was no where to be found.  But of course, if a family travels together, renting a whole apartment is the best option.

Lastly, we always check comments of other guests. You get a lot of information which the host may not have mentioned in the listing. Some apartments which appears nice but have no reviews … we avoid them also. Just wondering people who stayed there never survived .... Haha!!

I hope you find this useful.  Happy travelling!!

By: Jo







2014年7月19日 星期六

各處鄉村各處例

到了意大利一個月了,雖然還只能算是一個遊客,但對這裡的生活狀況和文化習慣,總算有些體會,很多事前也沒注意到的…

- 這裡的物價比想像的高,據說是從本國貨幣里拉轉做歐元期間,物價就一直往上衝了

- 油價是我旅遊那麼多年,見過最高的地方,比香港還要貴!
- 一直聽說港式pizza不夠正宗,意大利的沒有厚批,而薄的是香脆底像餅乾… 我來了這裡幾乎每天也有吃pizza, 從南部pizza發源地那不勒斯 吃到北部接近奧地利,發現這裡的pizza 不是港式,但也不是傳說中的薄脆意式的,而是薄和“ 軟bel bel”,只有批邊部份是厚身硬一點,如果想直接用手拿著1/6件來吃,那絕對會把大部份批餡倒掉的,所以除了用刀叉之外,必須用手拿來吃的話,只有把三角尖尖部份往批邊先卷起來,是一個意大利人教的
- 這裡喝紅酒非常普遍,如果在一伙人用餐時,你選擇了清水作為飲料,那大家舉杯 cheers 的時候就要注意,沒有人拿清水來 cheers 的,因為那代表眼淚!(當時的我頑皮的心想“那紅酒也可代表血腥呢”!當然話沒真的說出口 :P)
- 還有一點實在是出乎意料,因為是跟我們的傳統剛相反~~就是這裡 “預祝生日是不吉利” !必須要當日或過後才能慶祝,背後概念大意是 “世事難料,你能否平安渡過生日也不知道,成功過了才值得慶祝” 我聽了後想一下也很有道理,就正如沒有人會在巴西入四強時就慶祝他們拿冠軍一樣,這樣事後只會更難堪!


除了上述的,還有很多小不同,這些都是我喜歡旅遊原因之中,看看這個世界不同的地方,不同的人,不同的生活,欣賞體會之餘,也提醒著自己,人生並沒所謂必然,尤其是當你發現就算錯過了女友生日也可安然渡過時(只要她是意大利人) :P  就更明白,在你周邊每人每日幹著同樣的事,並不代表就是你唯一的選擇… 除了當個房奴,為子女排隊拿入學申請之外...

人生,其實還有很多可能性...


By Mat


2014年7月14日 星期一

佛羅倫斯 翡冷翠 FIRENZE

無論是佛羅倫斯,翡冷翠還是Firenze, 無論那一個名字都漂亮,讓我對這地方充滿著浪漫的遐想



在佛羅倫斯朋友家中寄宿了八個晚上,生活很閒適。一部份時間在幫忙朋友準備婚禮的裝飾,但更多是在享受意大利美食和悠閒地休息,和老友聚舊。別的不說,家中有一個會做飯的男人,是一個女人的幸褔!! 想來想去,我們四個真應該住在一塊(至少在旁邊),有人煮飯,有人洗碗,而我們倆就享受這生活,天天做手作,如果手作能糊口當然更好….做夢中….



在外面吃的固然是美味,美食推介是牛肚和超大的T骨牛扒。我們已習慣了意大利人對於我們兩個人點一個薄餅的蔑視目光,聽說我們那天十個人點了兩份各1.8kgT骨牛扒,還是有點...待應建議十人應點51.2kg,即是共6kg,就是說每人要吃上1磅以上!! 天呀! 還有「意式天婦羅」也不錯,會炸意大利番瓜的花,,和其他瓜菜,但炸香菇是首選,濃得化不過的菌味現在還回味中。



但外面的美食再好也及不上家中大厨!! 特別是他對煮食的熱愛和「豪邁」的烹調風格,感覺如行雲流水,絶不造作,我們這些食客享受的不止是結果,還有當中的過程!

遊客活動當然也有,但不是重點,博物館已看膩了,就是Duomo真的很漂亮,算是到現時為止,我覺得最有感覺的大教堂。但只要看外面就夠了,不用排隊進入,內裡基本沒什麼。


在意大利,我最享受的是在大街小巷閒逛,家家戶戶的陽台都種了萬紫嫣紅的花,或可愛的「肉肉」植物,都是一片風景。一盞吊燈一個招牌都是名信片的好題材。佛羅倫斯橫街小巷都得漂亮,都像電影內的場景,隨便在街上蹓躂也是一件樂事!

by: Jo



Firenze, and its two translated names in Chinese, they are all beautiful names.  Because of the names, I have always had a wonderful and romantic fantasy about Florence.

We live in a friend’s place for 8 nights, and have been really relaxing.  We were helping our friend to prepare a few things for the wedding, but even more, we have been enjoying Italian cuisine, relaxing, and chit chat with old friend.  No to mention the rest, I always believe that it is a woman’s bliss to have a man who cooks!  I really believe that the four of us should live together (or at least next door), one would cook, the other would do the dishes and we will get to enjoy life!  We can do our handicrafts all day, and hopefully some of them can make money also …. Day dreaming….

Delicious meals at restaurants, highly recommend trippa and huge T-bone steak.  We are already used to Italian’s despise look when the two of us order one pizza.  Apparently, ordering two 1.8kg T-bone steaks for ten are still …. The waiter actually recommended that we should order five portions of 1.2kg, which means 6kg and each person has to eat more than one pound of T-bone steak!! Oh my god!! I also like the “Italian tempura”, they fry zucchini flowers and also other vegetables, but I personally love the fried mushrooms.  The strong mushroom flavor is still something that I miss over time.

No matter how well we dine out, the chef at home is better!! Especially when you see the passion in cooking and watch the way he cooks, so casually and naturally.  We do not only enjoyed the dishes but the process also!

We of course did some tourist activities also but not the focus here.  I was tired of going to museums.  The Duomo in Firenze is truly beautiful though, it is by far the most beautiful cathedral I have ever seen.  However, you really don’t need to queue up to go inside, nothing much to see in there.  

What I enjoyed most in Italy is wondering around on the streets.  Balconies always have some colorful flowers or different types of cactus, each one is a picture.  Any one street lamp or a hanging sign board is something for a postcard.  I love the streets and alleys in Firenze, they are all movie scenes, wondering on the street is so enjoyable!

by: Jo


拿坡里 Napoli

會因為喜歡一本書的書名而買一本書。

計劃行程時,預算玩7天然後出發到佛羅倫斯,看著地圖,莫明地喜歡拿坡里這名字好吧!就到拿坡里。

後來當然知道了不能錯過的龎貝古城,但其他行程都沒有預先規劃。在火車上慢慢看資料,看到了一個想去的地方,再加上龎貝古城,市內再逛逛,應該差不多了。

酒店就在火車站旁邊,我們一心想今天先休息一下,到火車站找找資料,輕輕鬆鬆的。在遊客服務中心,遇到了一個極不友善,而且非常不幫忙的小姐,不知道她一直是這樣,還是對中國人特別不友善。我想參觀的地方是Borbonico Tunnel,必須確認三天証是否包括,她先是告訴我說這地方只開星期六日,拿了單張隨便指了一個地方,說四點就關門了,你們去不了….一邊走回去,我再看一下單張,發現她是亂說的,我們要參加的普通團最後一團是五點半,我們就回頭再問。她先是堅持說五點半是結束時間,經我堅持,她致電查詢,確認最後一團是五點半,但告訴我說只有意大利語的….我再問哪有沒有英語的,她說沒有,我沒有問把我氣得!!

回到酒店,自己上網查到是有英語的,讓酒店的主人幫我再打電話確認,真的是有英語團!可恨的是,我們必須回去跟那個討厭的女人買三天票!

經過一番折騰,終於可以出發。幸運地,我們堅持了, 這個參觀,是到目前為止,最讓我們愉快的經歷。

Borbonico Tunnel 的挖掘本來是作為皇室人員的逃生通道,但最終沒有完成,後來在二次大戰期間,被用作防空洞。這隧道在1970年完全被棄用後,直至八年前由兩名地質學家決定重新發挖研究,建成了這個地方,每星期三天開放讓公眾參觀。實在,這一個半小時的參觀,不止讓我們多了解了這城市的歷史,更重要的是我們的嚮導員是一個對這地方超有熱誠的女孩,她的熱誠表現在整個導賞中,提供了許多有趣的資訊,而且能感受到她的直接參與而不是依書直說。

我們絶對誠推介這地方,當然希望所有導賞員都像Lucia一樣讓人快樂!!

除此之外,拿坡里也是一個很漂亮和舒暢的城市,有城市外也有海邊散步的地方。我們酒店附近有一個街市,超多海鮮,還有活八爪魚,但活的就非常貴。




聽說這裡是薄餅的發源地,所以也到了非常地道薄餅店朝拜一下,人多得很!



by: Jo



I will buy a book because I like the title.

When we were planning our trip, we know we have 7 days before going to Firenze.  We looked at the map and I just love the name “Napoli” for no apparent reasons.  Yes, let’s go to Napoli.

Later, we obviously found out that Pompeii is what we cannot miss, apart from that, not really know where we will go.  We read on the train and I decided one place I want to go.  With that plus Pompeii will make our trip.

The hotel is right next to the train station.  We thought we will just take a rest today and gather some information at the train station.  Unfortunately, we had this very rude and unhelpful tourist information officer.  I am not sure if she is always like that or if she doesn’t like Chinese… I would like to visit the Borbonico Tunnel and I need to confirm if the 3 days pass includes the ticket I need.  First, she told me that the tunnel is only open on weekends and she randomly pointed on the brochure and said it closes at 4pm and it is too late for you now.  On our way back, I was looking through the brochure and found that she is wrong, the last regular tour is at 5:30pm.  So, we went back and she first insisted that 5:30 is the end time.  With my perseverance, she called and confirmed that the last tour starts at 5:30pm.  But then, she said that the tour is in Italian only.  I asked a few times whether or not they have tours in English, her face is so bad and she said “I don’t know, I didn’t ask…”.

We went back to the hotel and found from the website that the tours are in both English and Italian. We asked the hotel staff to call again and confirm they will have the 5:30 tour in both languages.  The most annoying thing is then I need to go back and buy the pass from this lady.

Finally, we are ready to go.  The good thing is, we insisted and this is the best experience so far in Italy.

The Borbonico Tunnel was dig originally as escape route for the royal family, but it was never completed.  Later on during WWII, it was being used as shelter for the people.  The tunnel was fully abandoned by 1970s and it was only until 8 years ago that two geologies decided to clean up the tunnel and open it to public 3 days a week.  In this 90 min tour, we got to know a lot more about the histories of Napoli.  More importantly, the tour guide is a girl who is so passionate about this place and she fully reflects that in the guiding.  She provided so much interesting information, her direct involvement makes the whole thing a lot more personal and not just book reading. 

We highly recommend this tour and I hope all the other tour guides can be the same as Lucia, and brings joy to visitors.

Apart from that, Napoli is also a very comfortable city to walk around, and you can walk by the seaside also.  There is a wet market near our hotel and there are lots of seafood, including live octopus, although very expensive.

Furthermore, Italian pizza originated from Napoli.  We tasted it at a local pizzeria, long queue!!

by: Jo




2014年7月13日 星期日

One night dance with a central girl

到了意大利北部lake garda,一半原因是看名勝古蹟看得累了,換換口味轉為欣賞湖光山色,另一半就是因為這裡有個爬石區Arco,可以拜訪一下,就算沒機會認真爬也總算是到此一遊。

有人說過身處外國沒私家車,等同沒腳,雖然有點誇張,事實上去旅遊熱點勉強還可以的,但還想貪心去攀岩點則確實有點困難,我從幾十個爬點找了一兩個最容易到達的,看看之餘,希望還能碰上有其他“爬手”,可以借線來玩玩…一想借線心裡就很不自在,因為從少到大我也不習慣這種所謂“靠黐”的行為,絕少要別人幫忙那種(但反過來我倒沒所謂的,就是傳統那種寬待別人,刻苦自己的笨性格),有時自己能力做不來的,就情願選擇“放棄需求”... 但這次只好厚著臉皮破例一下了!

這次和jo的優悠遊,主要是為了遊歷觀光,jo 不是爬手,如果幾個月旅程裡面只為了幾天過手癮 而把所有攀爬設備都帶上,對一個背包旅客來說是不可能,所以出發前一天思前想後,決定只帶了屬於跟身裝備的安全帶和鞋,這決定是基於爬石必需有parter, 如果真的要找parter的話,就索性找個有帶繩和扣的好了… 旅途中,我嘗試上網看看有沒有一些討論區可以找climbing partner, 發現我這種人很難有機會找到的~ 沒固定時間,沒固定地點,沒裝備,只為路過玩玩兩天就鬆人~說條件出來,恐怕我自己也討厭自己!

結果我決定選擇身心也最沒重量的“一夜情”模式,沒約定時間,沒固定人選,就希望如電影裡的一夜情橋段: 到行內人熱點,看看有沒有合適的人選,打個招呼,聊一下,可以的話就來了,立即去運動… 一輪流汗和喘氣之後,筋疲力盡,開心過後,就分手說聲bye,名字也沒記下來!



前因交代太多了…說回我選擇了一兩個容易到的熱點,到了其中一個的時候,只有一組人在爬,那我就去打個招呼說明一下來意,他們也很大方說沒問題可以一起玩,和我搭檔的看上去是一個二十來歲女孩,很友善也算可愛,運動前也樂意聊一下, 問她是從哪裡來,她回答了一個名字,我聽不懂,再聽一次,還是沒聽過的名字,我以為是我語言能力差,望向jo, 她頭上同樣也打了三個問號??? 那只好再問是在歐洲東南西北哪裡,她說大概在歐洲中心位置,這就更令我驚訝了!德國奧地利瑞士…這些地方名字我也聽過呢!結果我不停猜了六七個我認為有可能算中心位置的國家也沒對…最後忍不住拿Google map 出來問,結果是……
真的沒想起有那個國家,更沒想到她會認為那裡是歐洲的中心!

我突然想…到底是每個國家的國民教育都把自己當成中心?還是我們都被矇了眼睛,中心也傾斜到經濟大國呢?

PS: 大家可以試試先不查資料不看地圖,看看能不能猜出來?

by: Mat